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Ziggy Stardust Resort (Ko Samui Thailand)
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Carl Duncan (San Francisco)
On a creaky old bamboo chair, I'm leaning against a coconut palm, shirtless, watching the day begin. Up the beach, the all-night fishermen are in, walking their anchors up onto the sand, their homemade kerosene lanterns still glowing, the bows painted with magic eyes. Nearby, a grey-haired man in a faded sarong leads his fighting buffalos into the shallows. He splashes water on their flanks, and rubs them down. All around me, thatched bungalows, careened fishing boats, arching palms, and curved sands — burnished by the dawn — beg for a camera. Moments later, the sun snaps free of the horizon, instantly hot. It's a new day at Ziggy Stardust Resort in the quiet fishing village of Bophut, about 400 miles south of Bangkok, on the north shore of Ko Samui, Thailand's third largest island. These days, Samui's high season seems to last all year. Right now, on nearby Chaweng Beach (Samui's Waikiki, reminiscent of Bali's Kuta 10 years back), the air-conditioned cabanas and landscaped resorts are chock full of “all those tourists covered in oil.” Never mind. If you wish to avoid the crowds, it's easy. There's always the perfect beach bungalow somewhere along the 30-mile-long ring road that circles the rugged interior. Bophut's been our choice since our first visit in 1985. A lazy, tropical tramp's excuse for a home away from home. Traditional and quiet, but with enough beach restaurants and thatched bars to keep it entertaining. On the verandah of our Bophut bungalow, in the fragrant shade of the frangipanis, we linger over coffee and flip the yellowed pages of our paperbacks. Mid-morning I kick start the Honda Dream motorbike, and we ease through the one-lane fishing village and onto the island's ring road. Ten minutes later we turn off into a coconut plantation (trained monkeys do most of the labor on this island), and follow a rutted track to “our” beach. “Ours” by possession: In the past week, no one else has showed up. It was the same last year. And the year before that. I put a palm frond on the seat to ward off the sun, and we wade out to the sand bar and spread our sarongs. The big Singha beers and picnic lunch will keep just fine in the damp shade behind a boulder. The warm tide'll wake us gently when it rises. Afternoon, we're back at the bungalow, sluicing off the sand and salt under a cool shower. Looking forward to another sunset at the tiki bar. I suddenly realize we've been here three weeks now, with no thoughts of heading back.
Ed Leavitt (San Francisco)
to all my friends at ziggy stardust:
thank you all for my wonderful stay in ko samui. i miss being there very much. i am just now getting back into the swing of things back in san francisco. can't wait to come back to thailand, so tell rin,na,wi,and ban to practice their american english, because ther will be a test for them when i return. thank you again for everything.sincerely, ed leavitt
Virginia (England)
I stayed at Ziggy Stardust for 4 weeks. I think it really is the best resort on the island. The Thai family that run it are the friendliest people that I met and they looked after me so well. The resort is in a great location on the best and quietest beach and it has amazing thai style bungalows that look out on beautiful gardens. I would recommend this resort to anybody visiting Samui. Thanks to everyone there for making my holiday the best yet. See you again soon.
Martin Gomer (British in Brussels)
Oh the cultureshock of being back in Europe... thank you Thailand and Thai people for being the most beautiful in the world. Samui, I'll be back. You're right, Jeremy, the Ziggy Stardust Resort in Bophut is the best ! Special Hi to the people there.
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